climbing shoes 07 by Article Announcement
Published Date: 01/09/06
Climbing shoes come in all shapes and sizes, and if youre a new climber it can be tough to know what shoe, or even what type of shoe, to buy.
The biggest difference between climbing shoes is whether a certain shoe is slip-lasted or board-lasted. Slip-lasted shoes have the outer rubber of the shoe directly attatched to the leather or synthetic inner of the shoe. This results in excellent sensitivity when feeling for toe-holds, since youre able to feel the shape and texture of the holds beneath your feet. Slip-lasted climibing shoes are also very flexible, making it easier to contort your feet in cracks or smear your feet, placing the ball of your foot on a flat wall and relying on the friction of the shoe rubber against the rock to keep your foot in place. Board-lasted shoes, on the other hand, have a rigid or semi-ridged insert between the rubber of the shoe and the insole. Board-lasted shoes are quite a bit stiffer than slip-lasted shoes, and this stiffness brings with it some pros and cons. Some of the benefits are that some people find that their feet get tired in slip-lasted shoes, especially after a few hours of climbing. This fatigue is due to the fact that their feet must be tensed to stay on holds; the shoe doesnt give them any support. Board-lasted shoes naturally transfer your weight more evenly across your foot, even if only your toe is on a hold. Theyre also good for tiptoeing on small edges or for climbing long, multi-pitch routes. However, theyre usually not as aggressive as slip-lasted shoes and wont work as well on extreme overhangs.
The shapes of shoes also differ considerably, from the bulky, all-day board-lasted shoe to the aggressive, downward-turned shape of a high-angle bouldering shoe. These aggressive shoes, with their long, downward-shaping arches, are designed to allow the shoe to hold on steep, overhanging walls. Though effective, the extreme camber of these shoes can be uncomfortable, so most first-time climbers should avoid them. Instead, look for shoes that you can use to climb everywhere, from bouldering to multi-pitch climbing.
Also, decide if you want laces, a slip on, or Velcro closure on your shoes. Lace-ups are usually the most comfortable but the hardest to get on, making them good for multi-pitch routes but lousy for bouldering. Slip on climbing shoes usually offer great sensitivity but can be uncomfortable, while Velcro shoes usually offer a good compromise between the two. Regardless of what type of shoe you decide to get, make sure you try it on, get it sized small enough to fit snugly, and try it out before making your purchase.
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